Technical Answers to your Questions

1. It is vital to diagnose the Cause of the old clutch malfunction before replacing with either a New or Rebuilt Unit. Check Hydraulic System-Bearing Free Travel-Cable- Oil Leaks- and any signs of old Facing Material or Oil  that may have built up in the Bell Housing which may cause Contamination of the New Clutch. All this must be corrected before you begin installing the New Clutch.
   
   
   
2. CORRECT SELECTION AND INSTALLATION OF GOODS OR PRODUCT SUPPLIED IS THE RESPONSIBILITY OF THE OF THE PURCHASER. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THE PARTS YOU HAVE BEEN SUPPLIED WITH OR HAVE ORDERED, ARE THE CORRECT PARTS. IF IN DOUBT CHECK AS THE PREVIOUS CLUTCH FAILURE MAY HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY INCORRECT PARTS BEING PREVIOUSLY INSTALLED.
   
   
   
3. Always Ensure the Flywheel is resurfaced - GROUND & NOT MACHINED IN A LATHE.
   
   
   
4. In the case of a Dual Mass Flywheel being fitted to the vehicle (With Dual mass Flywheels some manufacturers such as BMW and Porsche recommend that it is not machined. If the DMF Flywheel is worn it must be replaced) To check the flywheel depending on the manufacturer AXIAL: play between the primary and secondary masses can be up to 2mm.
   
   
   
5. The secondary Flywheel of each DMF also has a TILTING:  clearance of up to 1.6mm for a ball type Bearing and 3.0mm for a plain bearing. Provisional testing can be carried out in the workshop, if the primary and secondary flywheels can be rotated by  more than 20mm in opposite directions by hand (Measured on the Outside Circumference of the Flywheel) the wear limit has been reached and the flywheel MUST BE REPLACED.
   
   
   
6. THE PRIMARY AND SECONDARY FLYWHEEL MUST NEVER  KNOCK AGAINST EACH OTHER.
   
   
   
7. IF IN DOUBT REPLACE THE DMF FLYWHEEL.
   
   
   
8. Clean the Gearbox main drive shaft splines and check that the new clutch disc slides freely on the shaft. Grease the shaft LIGHTLY with high melting point Grease. Never use copper based or anti-seize type grease lubricant as it will not adhere and may dislodge causing contamination of the friction material resulting in slippage and or clutch shudder. Lack of lubrication of splines/components will lead to clutch drag or failure to disengage gears. Too much Grease may cause slipping issues and premature failure of the clutch.
   
   
9.  Before fitting the Gearbox: Check clutch release fork for cracks, check clutch cable for signs of stretch, and check the release bearing tube for signs of wear. IF IN DOUBT REPLACE. Always lightly grease the outside diameter of the tube for smooth sliding of the bearing carrier. Check the bearing on the clutch fork by moving the fork backwards and forwards to ensure the bearing is secure before refitting the gearbox.
   
   
   
10.   Place the Pressure Plate (COVER ASSEMBLY) over the clutch disc after checking the Disc is in the right direction and does not foul on the Casting of the Cover assembly or the flywheel Bolts etc. Use an alignment tool to ensure correct alignment and avoid spline damage.(Burrs on splines are a Major cause of difficult clutch disengagement)  Align any flywheel dowels to the cover assembly.
    
    
    
11.   Tighten bolts in a diagonal pattern and NEVER use air-tools to install a clutch Cover Assembly. Torque down bolts in an uneven pattern in some instances could cause release lever struts to dislodge from the pressure plate casting.
    
    
    
12. . When the pressure plate has been torqued down to the flywheel USING MANUFACTURERS SPECS. Ensure the diaphragm tips are in a parallel or slightly upward position.
    
    
    
13.   Refit Gearbox: NEVER hang the gearbox off the clutch disc or use any force to align the input shaft. Be careful as to not bend the disc or clutch release -shudder problems will occur.
    
    
14. . Check all Bell housing dowels to be sure they are in the correct position and tighten bell housing bolts. Make sure there is no contamination or cable clips, electrical wiring etc between the Gearbox and Bell housing mating surfaces which could cause misalignment.
    
    
    
15.   Perform any clutch adjustments to vehicle manufacturer's specifications (REMEMBER THAT THIS IS A NEW INSTALLATION) and always reset the clutch Master cylinder pushrod to obtain correct and comfortable release position. Keep in mind that the diaphram or Lever tip position has changed with the new installation.
    
    
    
16.   ALWAYS CHECK THE CABLE if you are unable to disengage the new clutch Start by replacing the cable, If it is a Hydraulic clutch start by checking the clutch Master cylinder and slave, ensure the system has been bled completely and there is no air in the system. This is absolutely essential to obtain maximum travel for clutch disengagement.
    
    
    
17.   Road test the vehicle
    
    
    
18.    NEVER       ABUSE      A     NEWLY     FITTED     CLUTCH.
    
    
    
19.   Allow a minimum 500k break in period and ALWAYS adjust free travel on your new clutch at 1000k and again at 1500ks. Adjust there after every 10,000ks for maximum clutch life.

Remember you will not get paid for doing the same job twice.